Shad Planking on the Nanticoke

The American Shad (Alosa sapidissima) is the largest member of the herring family. As an anadromous fish, the shad migrates from the ocean to freshwater specifically to reproduce. They migrate to the Chesapeake Bay and then up the Nanticoke and other rivers.

The buck shad (male fish) often weighing from two to three pounds ascend the Nanticoke River followed by roes (females) which can weigh seven or eight pounds and sometimes more. Once the water temperature gets above 60 degrees, the fish spawn and the migration is over.

The fish is a greenish blue black with silvery sides and white underneath. The tail has a notably deep fork.

The shad's Latin name means delicious and of course both its flesh and eggs (roe) are eaten. At the turn of the century annual harvests of the American shad were around 17.5 million pounds. In turn, in 1972 only 2 million pounds were harvested.

The American shad is a Federal trust fish, meaning that the Federal Government has some responsibility for its recovery. The American shad is protected under the Anadromous Fish Conservation Act. Restoration efforts are underway in rivers from Maine to Virginia.

The shad was an important food source for Revolutionary Americans and they were plentiful at that time. They have been severely depleted due to over fishing, pollution and building of dams in other areas.

It hasn't been many years since fisherman plied the Nanticoke River in search of these fish. The shad barge had a different look to it and were plentiful on the river in this area. They provided income to many during season and the bounty was enjoyed by all who ate its roe.

In olden times shad was smoked on standing oak boards and the secret sauces were braised on it as it cooked. This was called shad planking. The shad was cleaned and split open and nailed flat to the oak boards. The secret sauces were braised on the shad and it was left to cook. The board was turned several times to get uniform cooking.

Shad Planking on the Nanticoke

The shad planking being done by the Chicone Ruritan Club on the banks of the Nanticoke River starts early on the day of the festival. Several members begin work around 4 AM. Days earlier, much preparation and cleaning of the white oak boards has already taken place. A long fire pit is laid out and the wood to burn is brought in for the Festival. A fence is erected on which to stand the cooking boards. The shad is cleaned and prepared for the shad planking. After several hours of cooking, the shad is removed from the boards and served.

Shad were surely plentiful when Vienna was a Customs port in the Revolutionary days of this country. Shad remained plentiful even as the town of Vienna faced Somerset County across the river. Yes, Somerset County. Remember Wicomico County didn't exist before 1867.

The unique shad cooking technique that is enjoyed today traces it roots to Mr. Paul Cox, a Surry County Virginian. Mr. Cox, along with several Ruritans including Dr. E.C. Nettles and Mr. Richard Savedge, invited twenty-five of their friends to historic Wrenn's Mill in Isle of Wright County, Virginia for their first Shad Planking. Having attended similar functions in the deep South, Mr. Cox introduced the group to the intriguing process of cooking 15 shad they had caught earlier in the day from the James River on hardwood planks over an open fire. With Dr. Nettles' suggestion and help, the Wakefield Ruritan Club in Wakefield, VA later adopted this time honored tradition as an annual community and fund raising function in 1949. The event has been held every year since to herald the arrival of spring, with attendance increasing in size from the original 300 guests to over 2000 today. The event is often referred to as a Political Function.

Members from the Wakefield Ruritan Club graciously traveled to Vienna, Maryland to share their 'art' at the first Nanticoke River Shad Festival, hosted by The Nanticoke Watershed Alliance, in 1996. The group returned the following year, and taught their interesting trade to members of the Chicone Ruritan Club who have been responsible for planking the shad every year since.

Preparing the fish

The process begins with a sturdily constructed rack to hold the proper number of boards for the number of fish being planked. Chicone Ruritan Club planks 80 fish, 40 to a row. A fire pit is placed in the middle of the two racks. Wind direction is critical to the placement of the fire pit and racks. The racks should ALWAYS be positioned so that the wind blows parallel to the racks and straight down the fire pit. The fire is prepared about 2 hours before the fish are put on, using only hardwood (preferably white oak).

Do not use any of the pines because resin will give off an undesirable flavor. Continue adding wood as needed throughout the cooking process.

White oak 'Bodes' are used to 'Plank' the fish. Two, 1 x 2 inch batten strips are nailed or screwed across the width of each board, one about 10 inches from the bottom, the other is 18 inches from the first strip.

The scales and head are removed from each fish. The fish is opened from the back side and the backbone is removed along with the 'innards'. The belly should serve as a hinge so the fish will appear as a butterfly. If the fish is a roe, carefully remove and save the roe to fry and eat for breakfast while the fish are cooking.

The fish are placed skin side down on the board with 5, four penny, blue steel nails (no galvanized nails), placing one nail in the tail end, one on each side about midway of the body, and one on each side of the head of the fish. The nails should only be driven in just enough to hold the fish on the board: too tight and you'll pay later to get the nails out.

The planked fish are then leaned on the rack with the fish facing AWAY from the fire (board side to the fire) for at least one hour, maybe two, depending on the fire's heat. This will seal the fish to the board. The boards are then turned over with the fish facing the fire. Cook for three hours or until the oil stops running our of the fish, and then baste with the Secret Sauce. Baste at least two more times, once an hour or so. Cook the fish approximately eight hours until they are a deep rich brown color. The fish will start to flake when done. The bottom fish will probably cook faster than the top one, so it's often necessary to flip the plank end for end to allow each fish to cook equally.

Remove the nails, cut each fish into six serving, remove from the board, and serve.

"The Secret Sauce"

Although the process is not 'rocket science', the secret sauce, originally prepared by Dr. Nettles, is as close to rocket fuel as you can find without incorporating a petroleum product. The recipe is closely guarded, and probably should be registered. Additional sauce is often ladled directly over the cooked fish, which is best when eaten with corn pone, coleslaw, and other appropriate ingredients and refreshing beverages.

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